Cloth cutting , cloth cutting preparation
Cloth cutting, Before cutting the fabric it is necessary to follow certain instructions; Because such instructions are seen before cutting the cloth, whether it is printed or not, whether it is striped, or where the plane is upright and upside down in the plate. The following instructions should be followed
(1) Premeasurement of cloths
It is necessary to estimate the fabric, and how much fabric will be used to make a garment. The difficulty occurs when the cloth is low and there is loss when it is over. For this reason, it is very important to forecast the clothes. Linear cloth or printed fabric is used more than the plain cloth used; Because some cloth is also used in vain to match a line or print.
(2) Cloth surface
When the cloth comes to make the cloth, then it is properly seen to which side the surface of the cloth is straight and which side is inverted. The fabric layout is done only when one knows the opposite - straight. If there is a particular type of print fabric, in which it is difficult to know the straight surface of the fabric, then the decision is made by looking at the brightness of the fabric line.
In the layered and checked fabric layout, a straight stripe or lining is kept from the neck point. If the lining is focused on the facing, then the lining or check will not be wrong. It is also necessary to match the check of the front part with the check of the back part, otherwise, the garment will not look beautiful.
Care is also taken to keep the print of the cloth on one side in the printed fabric. The direction of the print is not kept in the opposite direction, otherwise, the reverse print spoils the cloth. In addition, garments of Pile fabrics are prepared. In this, the direction of Bur is taken care of. Burr's attitude is falling on one side and appears to be rising on the other side.
When looking from both sides, the shed appears segregated, so if one side of the throat is towards the descending bur and the other side is facing the descending bur, then there is a difference in the shed on both sides and it will wear the cloth But it looks bad, so it is very important to take care of the attitude of the Bur when making the clothes of the Burd cloth.
(3) Marking on the cloth
After printing the print and checking off the cloth, after the design is done, the cloth is marked with the chalk after the reverse of the cloth. In normal clothing, in which the reverse is straight, the stitch is marked on it.
(4) Pattern, pledge, and turning
Patrons are made according to the size of the garment. Inlays and turning should not be kept with it. After marking the mark of the pattern on the cloth, the mark of inlays and turning should also be used or the fabric becomes smaller after the cloth is stitched. The cloth is cut from these inscribed signs.
(5) Designing
The pattern is matched to the design according to the customer's design. The design of the cloth is made according to the body of a man. If a fat person likes a frill design, do not refuse to make it.
(6) grainline
The length of the cloth should be taken according to the grain line. If the grainline is towards the design of the fabric, the length can also be taken from the other direction. In this, the design of clothes is given more importance.
(7) Balance marks
Balance signs, along with other signs from the pattern, should also be made with chalk to maintain the balance of the garment. After cutting the clothes
(8) Use of scissors
Scissors about 30 cm It takes a long. Its edge is kept sharp. Its thick fruit (edge) is harvested by putting it on the table and putting four fingers in a large hole in its handle.
The cloth should be cut with about 2/3 of the scissors facing forward. The speed of the cloth should be reduced while cutting the rounding. Harvesting should be straightforward.
Precaution in cloth cutting
When the fabric is drafted, a pattern is made, based on which the fabric is cut. Before cutting, think about the measurement of cloth, etc. The following precautions should be kept in mind before cutting
1. After setting the pattern on the cloth, it is fixed by depositing it in such a way that it does not move at all while cutting the cloth. The paper or cardboard is stitched with an Alpin, which fixes the cloth. If the pattern is of metal, then it is applied to the patron and cloth in some places with salutes, so that the cloth does not move. Harvesting at those locations should be done on the removal of patterns.
2. If there is any defect in drafting or abnormal manipulation can be done while cutting the cloth so that there is no error in the fitting and the fabric can be made of the right fitting.
3. While cutting the cloth, do not lift the cloth in your hand or shake it anymore, instead cut one fold or several folds of cloth together by scaling the wide fruit of the scissors on the table and moving it with the hand.
4. Patrons are usually made according to the size of the cloth. There is no space left for stitching pressure. For this reason, marks on the fabric are also marked for pressure along with patterns of erosion. But while cutting the cloth, the cloth should be kept separately as per the requirement for sewing. This fabric is 6 mm on the folds and sides of the shirt. should keep. This cloth is about 12 mm in pants, jeans, etc. Or something more than that.
5. Inlining clothes, keep the lines of standing stance as far as possible in the front and back of the curtains and both arms, but in the collar, arrows, and cuffs, the cloth of the cross lines is applied.
6. Yoke, joints, bandages, etc. of clothing of fashion or two-color design must be left with extra fabric for sewing on both sides.
7. Before cutting the cloth with scissors, it must be made sure that the design of the folding, print, lining, etc. of all the fabric are properly fitted or not. In this way, the fabric is cut only after the fabric of the fabric, print, lining, etc. is decided, then there is no possibility of a mistake in it.
8. Vomiting of cloth in some clothes - the difference between the straight surface is less. Before harvesting, it is decided which surface is straight and which vomits. So that the finished clothes do not look ugly.
9. If a small garment is to be cut from an old garment, first that cloth is completely stripped, then it is pressed and straightened. A torn or worn or worn part is removed from that cloth. The fabric is cut by marking the leftover fabric with a pattern and leaving stitching pressure.
10. After making patron lines on the fabric, along these lines, dash lines should also be made for sewing pressure. The cloth should be cut from the dashed line and not from the pattern mark.
